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This modest but handsome Chocolat enchants viewers with its whimsical charm, beguiling characters, and unerring insights, while providing the best English-language vehicle to date for the luminous Juliette Binoche. Binoche portrays a peripatetic single mother who arrives in a sleepy French village and establishes a chocolate shop during Lent. She displays a remarkable facility for sensing the moods of customers and finding confections to match, but the sensuous appeal of her products is lost on the town mayor (Alfred Molina, who’s never been better), an uptight soul who believes she will undermine his authority. Johnny Depp, as an Irish riverboat gypsy, supplies a leading man of sorts, but Chocolat is really an ensemble film, and his contribution is no less important than those of Molina, Judi Dench (playing Binoche’s irascible landlady), and Lena Olin (as an abused wife who works in the shop). Director Lasse Hallstrom (The Cider House Rules) resists the temptation to make his film a full-blown allegory, but he also refuses to allow the story’s realistic elements to overshadow its mystical ones. Every bit as tasty a confection as the ones Binoche makes onscreen, Chocolat is smooth, sweet, and satisfying. Ed Hulse, Barnes & Noble
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